Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an profound love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
